Mezcal Amarás Logia Cenizo Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

• DISTILLER: Mezcal Amarás
• MASH BILL: 14-year-old wild cenizo agave (agave durangensis)
• AGE: None
• YEAR: 2021
• PROOF: 86 (43% ABV)
• MSRP: $66 USD ($1,110 Mexican Pesos)
• BUY ONLINE: Buy at Mezcal Amarás store

STEVE’S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Anyone interested in agave spirits.

WORTH THE PRICE: Absolutely, and arguably worth more.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle

OVERALL: Usually I lead with my observations, but this time, I think a little translation with the brand’s help is a good thing.

“Logia is an ode to the unattainable, the select and the rare, perfectly defining our agaves and their importance as a sacred plant. Its limited and collectible editions are specially selected for those who love to discover, in sips, details that move the soul”.

Compare that to the no-frills mentions of “corn, rye and barley” descriptions in bourbon, right?

Cenizo is the word used to describe the ashen appearance of the agave durangensis, which grows wildly in the Mexican state of Durango. Cenizo also is a nickname for this specific agave plant, which can grow to 1,100 pounds! By comparison, the largest of blue Weber agaves used in tequila weigh about 150 pounds.

If you’ve never seen mezcal production, it’s all done by hand. Not marketing-speak “by hand,” but literally by humans. Dismantling an 1,100 pound agave for transportation is one thing, but positioning it onto a blazing hot rock pit for roasting is another matter. This is brutal work.

Now, to the spirit. Warmed cheddar cheese greets the nose followed by charred green pepper, Granny Smith apple peels, eucalyptus, petrichor, white pepper, lemon zest and tamarind. I could go on, but won’t. Just know that it’s busy and that’s fun.

It is rich, viscous and soft on the palate, high in minerality (from the the region’s dry volcanic soil) and leaves just a wisp of smoke from roasting in a conical oven over volcanic stones heated by mesquite and huiscahe woods. A second pass serves up lemon-meringue-like tartness, tingly with white pepper and ever firmly grounded in mineral notes. It’s a treat to roll around the mouth and savor that silken-tingly texture before moving it down the hatch for a delicate and slightly dry finish.

This is a terrific spirit in every respect. To those who think mezcal is all smoke and burned rubber, this isn’t that at all. The agave is on display here, as is the distiller’s skill to render the plant’s character more than the way it was cooked. For anyone hoping to step into mezcal, this is a great starting point. No cocktail buffer needed, just sip it neat. Embrace the delicate funk, wait for sour tart fruits and petrichor to show up and you’ll be rewarded handsomely.

BRAND NOTES

Amarás Logia Cenizo keeps a balance between smoky and citric aromas on the nose, to bold and intense hints of roasted coffee beans.

Handcrafted with a 14-year-old wild agave scientifically known as a A. durangensis. It is crafted using a particular artisanal recipe that starts with the use of local mesquite and huisache wood when cooked.

It is then naturally fermented in rectangular vats buried at ground level to maintain a stable temperature because of the extreme climate in Durango.

Its fermentation is 100% natural, in rectangular vats at ground level, maintaining a stable temperature.

• On the nose: A refined hint of citrus fruits combined with earthy and smoky notes.
• On the palate: A bold and intense roasted coffee bean flavor.
• Finish: A touch wooden zest with a trace of sweet raisins.

Founded in 2010 by Santiago Suarez and Luis Niño de Rivera, Mezcal Amarás’ founding principal is to produce the highest quality mezcals as sustainably as possible – it is the world’s first carbon neutral mezcal company, harvesting a variety of cultivated and wild agaves and planting 10 agaves for each one harvested. Handcrafted by the best Maestros Mezcaleros from three mezcal regions in Mexico: Oaxaca, Guerrero, and Durango, each bottle of Mezcal Amarás contains the rich history of traditional mezcal production. Additionally, 20% of the net sale of each bottle is allocated to the development of internal initiatives associated with social and environmental responsibility, as well as ensuring mezcaleros are paid a fair price and receive educational courses and business training.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.